Time moves on, Jerry and Terry divorce, the Terrace becomes the Terrace on the Green, then becomes the Terrace Mediterranean Kitchen. Besides, tabbouleh, baba ganoush, gyros, falafels and hummus were common dishes to the area - and at the time Greek to most Arkansans.Īnd the Terrace flourished, in no small part thanks to conviviality of the Barakats. relations with Iran were strained at the time, and some of us have difficulty distinguishing one Middle Easterner from another. Barakat, a Palestinian from Jerusalem, opted to present the restaurant as "Greek" at least in part because he felt a Palestinian restaurant mightn't be well-received in a country where so many of us are geographically impaired. You have to keep an eye on those copy editors.Īnyway, the Terrace has been around since 1982, and it has gone through a few locations and incarnations since Jerry Barakat, along with his then wife Terry, first opened its doors. I can only imagine what sort of bacchanalian exploits occurred. Which we regret, because the food and service has never disappointed, and my wife, Karen, remembers the days in the '80s when half the staff of the Arkansas Gazette would pile into the former Breckenridge Village location for bring-your-own-wine, all-you-could-eat (for less than $10) "Greek-a-ramas."
Turns out there are a great many restaurants out there and only so many occasions, and once the Terrace moved to what is pretty far west Little Rock (we venture beyond University Avenue, but only with a purpose) it slipped out of our rotation. Which is one of the reasons I'm coming off the bench to review it.)īut that's not how things work - at least not with us. (It seems like most people who even occasionally write about dining out in this city are. So you might think I've been a Terrace regular all these years. And it anticipated a number of similarly positioned spots, including Brave New Restaurant and the late great Spaule. The Terrace was a coastal cultural center-league restaurant at lower prices. Not because the cuisines were so similar - although Laconda Veneta, at least when I used to go there, did tend to slip into eastern Mediterranean aromas and spices - but because of the upscale but comfortable atmosphere and the delicacy of the dishes.
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